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Wade Menendez was hailed as a pioneer in black men's non-surgical hair replacement.
The 35-year-old Maryland barber's 90-minute haircut tips include sticking natural and synthetic hair to his scalp. Then he cut his hair, cut it into a submissive appearance, and cut it into natural hair.
Yes, glue may sound dirty and uncomfortable - but the visuals are striking.
"I'm doing this to help people, not just out of confidence, but to help others make money," Menendez told VICE News. "I'm always here to do everything I can, and I think that's what I'm called on to do, so I'm doing what I'm aiming for and my destiny. "
Menendez, who owns a W-shaped hair salon in Glenburn, Maryland, has taught more than 500 stylists his hairdressing skills over the past four years. (By the way, he knows that the "man weave" hype is real - after all, @wadethebarber has more than 120,000 followers on Instagram - but he prefers the word "skull prosthesis." )
"Each of you lives in a city where you live are bald, thin people," he says in the video to a group of professionals. ""It always has a market. "
Demand is undeniable: According to a 2017 CNBC report, black hair products account for 85 percent of total U.S. beauty sales.
Mintel, a global research firm, values the market at $2.5bn, but the real value of the industry is much higher. However, the exact figure is difficult to determine because the overall sales figures do not include hair, wigs and electric styling products, as most are imported from India and China.
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Dr Nigel Hunt, associate professor of psychology at the University of Nottingham and author of The Response to Hair Loss, said: "Whether we like it or not, our appearance is vital to our identity and our selves. "Sudden hair loss can threaten or change our identity. "
Hunter's research adds to a well-established medical conclusion that hair loss is closely linked to anxiety and depression. Often, women feel more strongly about it.
"In my clinic, I see a lot more women than men, even though there are more men who have hair loss overall," said Ali Jabari, M.D., an associate professor of dermatology at carver School of Medicine in Iowa. ""It may be that male hair loss is more acceptable as normal. "
But there are many reasons for women's hair loss, not just hair loss. Hair loss is linked to medical problems such as thyroid disease, low iron levels, lupus erythematosus and polycystic ovary syndrome, which means that people often have to go through rounds of testing - weeks, months, and sometimes years of stress - just to rule out all possibilities. Then, once they are finally diagnosed with hair loss, they shrug and are told there is nothing they can do about it.
That's the case with Kylie Bamberger, 29, who started hair loss at the age of 12. "I often leave school for appointments and exams, but no one can figure out what I have, " she says. "Three years later, when she was diagnosed with autoimmune baldness, she felt hopeless, not relieved. "I was diagnosed with cancer when I was 15 and there was no solution. "
"Hair loss means any form of hair loss, " says Dr Jabari. From there, he says, it is broken down into scar forms of hair loss and non-scar form of hair loss.
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Scarned hair loss sounds like: "Scars can damage hair follicles, and you can't get your hair back," Dr. Jabari said.
Second, there are three main types of baldness (no scarring), namely the autoimmune disease Bamberg (6.8 million people in the United States have spot baldness). It usually starts with small, round hair loss. This can develop into total baldness and the hairs on the scalp are completely lost. The most severe forms are general hair loss, loss of scalp and body hair.
There is also traction hair loss, caused by tight hairstyles, more common among African-American women, and may evolve from scar-free to scarring. Androgen baldness, also known as female/male baldness, is caused by hormonal changes without scarring.
Since spotting is an autoimmune disease, patients usually start with corticosteroid injections that suppress the immune system. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), patients receive injections every three to six weeks, and hair begins to grow about four weeks after the last injection. AAD also recommends the use of the active ingredient in the fall-down, Minoir.
For baldness, Dr. Jabari is most excited about a new drug called JAK inhibitors that block inflammatory signals associated with hair loss. "JAK inhibitors have been approved for use in other autoimmune diseases, such as rheumatoid arthritis and psoriasis arthritis," he said.
